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About The Author
Authors Notes
Your First Pond
Trees & Sunshine
Take The Plunge
Preformed Pools
Installing A Liner
Making A Raised Pool
A Koi Pond
Miniature Ponds
Adding A Waterfall
Colourful Ponds
Choosing A Pump
Solar Powered Pumps
Looking After A Pump
Pond Pipework
Installing A Fountain
Self-Contained Fountains
The Leaky Pond
Planting The Pond
A Wildlife Pond
A Bog Garden
Pond Plants
Plants Round A Pond
Choosing A Lily
Floating Plants
Water Hyacinth
Oxygenating Plants
About Fish
When To Buy Fish
Choosing Fish
Quarantining Fish
Fish Under Stress
Feeding Your Fish
Holidays & Fish
Breeding Coldwater Fish
Changing Colours Of Fish
Pond Fish
A Koi Collection
Ghost Koi
Fancy Goldfish
Coldwater Catfish
Grass Carp
Rearing Trout
Swan Mussels
Visitors To The Pond
Visiting A Koi Auction
Clubs & Societies
Caring For Fish
Testing The Water
Are You Poisoning Your Fish
Ponds & Medicines
Diseases & Parasites
Disappearing Fish
Problems With Herons
Green Ponds
Fish Pond Filters
How A Filter Works
Improving Your Filter
Ultra Violet Sterilizers
Looking After A Filter
The Pond Through The Year
Spring Cleaning
Pond Plants In Spring
Ponds In Summer
Autumn & Winter
Breaking The Ice
10 Problems
Useful Facts & Figures

Allotment Articles1.
Allotment Articles 2.

Installing A Pre-Formed Pond

After buying one of the many different types of pre-formed pools the installation has to be considered, Firstly a site has to be chosen and then the hole has to be dug out. The type of pool does not matter as they should all be treated in the same way. The top quality fibreglass pools are much stronger and therefore more forgiving if the hole is not quite the right shape, whereas plastic pools need a little more care in their installation, but even so the more care taken over the installation of the pool the longer will be its lifespan. 

First of all the site should be leveled using a builderís spirit level and a long flat board. Then digging can commence. Mark out the shape of the hole to be dug using careful comparative measurements and a piece of string, or hose pipe to get the shape right. When doing this donít forget that the bottom of the pool will go in the deepest and this is almost certainly a different shape to the top, so donít dig too enthusiastically until the shape is right. Great care must be taken to ensure that the shelves on the pool are supported by firm soil because these are the weakest parts of the pool. It is worth digging the hole out roughly on day one and then having a rest and going back to it fresh on day two when you have a little more patience. Sculpt the hole as near as possible to the shape of the pool end then go over the hole carefully to remove any stones that may be present. The action of frost and water way cause soil movement and with the tremendous weight of water in a pool, (A 100 gallon pool weighs about 1/2 a ton when full!) a stone could otherwise cause a puncture.

At this point it is advisable to check that the pool is level in both directions. After this is completed obtain a bucket full of soft sand and loosely scatter a very thin layer over the inside of the hole. Next lower the pool gently into the hole, firm it in and remove it again. Look at the hole and you will see where the pool has touched the sand and where it needs a little more to fill in a small gap. After the gaps have been filled in repeat the process over and over again until it appears that the pool is touching the sand all over the hole. If the sand is damp, even the sides can be shaped in this way but it is probably easier to fill these in afterwards by trickling the sand down the sides and firming it from above. When the pool is resting in the hole make one final check that it is level with a spirit level and then it its ready for filling.

Donít forget that if you are going to put plants in it straight away it is easier to put them in while the pool is empty and fill it afterwards. Incidentally this also means that the soil wont be disturbed so much either.





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